Sunday, October 30, 2011

Save the whales for dinner, part II

October in Barrow... simultaneously the most dreary month (that I've experienced so far and by word of mouth) and the most interesting.  It started out with temperatures in the 30s and a light dusting of snow with lots of animal sightings and is ending with temperatures in the teens (single digits with wind chill), snow drifts that can be as high as 4 feet and dead whales.  On one hand, I have seen the sky maybe twice all month with mostly constant snow clouds adding to the dreary feeling... and on the other hand I've seen one of the coolest things I've seen in my entire life.  Don't know quite how to feel about October!


I had thought the whaling season was over seeing ice on the horizon and all, but what happened was one last big push that brought in three more whales!  Luckily, Ian was able to get me the news with enough heads up to get me and the boy dressed and out the door.  Providence allowed this perfect timing day to be on one of the two beautiful days this month... with no wind!  So 12 degrees felt like 12 degrees and not -5!  A wind can make what would be a decent day into a brutal day.  I managed to get us out of the house in 20 minutes flat... some kind of record... and before long we were skidding along the icy streets in the notorious Stroudmobile.  It seemed like no time before we could see all the vehicles of the family, crew, and interested on-lookers on the right side of the road just past the blue Barrow whalers football field with the ice-laden Chukchi Sea on our left.   I found a "parking lot" with an entrance I thought we could manage and parked the van feeling rather relieved when it seemed certain it wouldn't die in park.  It needed to stay running in order to assure that we'd be able leave.  You never know when the van gods will smile on your or not!  I loaded Atticus into the stroller, the only thing I could come up with on how I would be able to take photographs and keep up with him and pushed it awkwardly toward the large bowhead whale laying on its side a short walk away.  It hadn't been long since the large machinery had pulled it out of the ocean and had deposited it at the end of the old runway where they do their butchering.  This being the sixth whale caught this whaling season, most of the people there were family and friends of the crew and a handful of scientists who show up to measure and and record the contents of the whale's stomach, etc.  This was a great situation for me seeing as I wanted to take some pictures without people in them.  Since it was about 2pm, the sun was also fairly low in the sky, casting long shadows and a lovely warm light.  Kids were having fun running around and climbing on the whale's jaw area before the butchering drove them out of the way and the general feeling around was one of muted joy.  Everyone was smiling and having a good time, except for the crew hard at work.  They worked at a rate that was rather amazing to behold.  They can dismantle a whale so quickly!  It's obvious they know what they're doing.  After we had been out there about 30 minutes, a woman came around offering hot tea to all the onlookers.  It was nice to be there and be part of it all.  Even Atticus didn't seem to mind too much being cooped up in the stroller for an hour so long as I moved him around a little bit.  After about an hour, though, he was ready to go and my memory card was pretty much used up by then too.  So we walked slowly back to the van, which was thankfully still running and very warm, and drove back to town.  It was great.  When we got back, I heard that two more whales had been brought in.  I think this fall whale hunt has been a fairly successful one!


For those interested in the whaling, in the fall they do go out in modern fishing boats.  This is mostly because the ocean is open and it is safer to go out in the modern boats when there isn't a lot of ice around.  Ice can do a lot of damage to metal boats, though, so in the spring they still go out in their sealskin umiaqs.  Sealskin is much easier to repair in the case of damage.  The umiaqs are also quieter, which helps the hunt.  So while some people may frown on subsistence whale hunting saying that it isn't the same since they use modern tools, they DO still use traditional methods as well.  The spring hunt used to be the primary whaling time until the ocean started getting a touch warmer and the ice they camp on more unstable.  Now the fall has become the primary whaling time.  The whale hunt is sustainable and every part of the whale is used, and it is an integral part of this very unique culture.

Friday, October 28, 2011

Save the whales.... for dinner!

Fall whaling season started early this month on the 8th of October.  I was totally bummed because I was out of town and of course they caught two whales before I got back.  Then there was a LONG stretch of time when the weather was too bad for anybody to go out and I figured it was over.  I was happily surprised when I heard  on Monday that two whales had been caught (unfortunately for me, that news came too late for me to get a look), and then today while I was in an appointment I overheard that another had been caught.  I rushed home, forced Ian to get himself and the boy ready, and we raced out to the site of the old runway, where they were butchering it.  As it turns out, we caught the tail end of the butchering (not the prettiest subject of photographs) but I can now say I HAVE SEEN a bowhead whale being butchered.  It was gory to say the least... blood staining the snow everywhere.  I saw a fin laying around and part of the ribs, some intestines and other organs and whatnot... and it was SO COOL!  This marks the 5th whale caught this fall whaling season and the meat goes to feed the community.  Now I likely have to wait a whole year to hopefully get there soon enough to see them haul it up the beach and make the first cuts... and I can't wait!  Congratulations to the crew who brought this whale in!  


Sunday, October 16, 2011

Adventures in the Stroudmobile

Our van.  It's a 1987 Ford F-350 15 passenger clubwagon.  The speedometer doesn't work.  There's a leak somewhere in the power steering so that doesn't work.  It's thinking of rusting through in some spots, there are more cracks in the windshield than I like to count, and it doesn't idle well.  Sometimes it cuts off when you come up to a stop sign.  This means we've gotten used to putting it in park while revving the engine to keep it going.  It's basically an adventure and an upper body workout just driving this thing!  But you know, it runs and the heat works pretty well.  With the onset of winter weather, however, it's become a little bit more of an adventure.  It snows in our van... like a measurable amount.  Ian has decided it's because some of the doors don't have rubber gaskets.  I'm still flummoxed how that much snow can get through a seemingly shut door even without rubber gaskets!  The biggest adventure, though, came the other day while I was driving to the post office.  Barrow is a windy place and it has really been howling lately.  Makes 20 degrees seem a lot colder!  I had turned on Eben Hopson St., one of the more major roads in Barrow, and was cruising by Tasigarook Lagoon when a gust of wind unhooked the hood of the van and flipped it up covering the entire windshield.  I let out an involuntary, low scream right before I tried to see out my passenger window how close to the edge of the road next to the lagoon I was.  Being so high up and the window a little dirty and so far away, I really couldn't tell.  So I just slowly came to a stop as best I could on a road of ice.  I discovered I don't know where the emergency lights are... probably need to know that with this thing! I checked my rear view window, put the van in park and got out and fixed the hood in the middle of the street, cars passing me on the right (apparently I wasn't as close to the side of the road as I hoped.)  The kind of funny thing is nobody honked or even seemed to act like this was anywhere out of the ordinary.  Only in Barrow.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Settling in for the long haul of winter

 

Something like 4 inches of snow fell on Barrow overnight and we'd already had two or three inches on the ground already.  Our freshwater is frozen and winter is no longer just a rumor.  It is here.  People have traded their ATV's for snowmachines and cars everywhere are starting to be plugged in.  And you know what?  I'm ok with that.  I've decided that Barrow looks best under a beautiful blanket of white.  AND I've seen more wildlife since the snow started falling than I've seen all summer.  This is evidently snowy owl season.  They are everywhere...  almost like the eagles in Homer.  Barrow's Inupiat name is Ukpeagvik which means, "The place where we hunt snowy owls."  And yeah, no wonder! Ian pointed out to me the other day that they are completely silent and they really are.  The take off without any sound whatsoever and without any warning.  This morning breakfast was postponed for an hour while I stalked one that was hanging out at our house.  Somebody must have told it about all the lemmings living under our house.  :)  And not just the snowy owls have been out.  I've seen two arctic foxes in the last two weeks.  Now if only another polar bear would show its face around here!  But that's all in good time.  Fall whaling starts on the 8th and with whale carcasses comes bears.  Unfortunately, I'll be out of town for the start but hope they catch one when I return!  

Our elections were held today so hopefully we'll find out in short order who will be mayor. One of the primary candidates is rather controversial.  His wife has recently been indicted for embezzling hundreds of thousands of dollars from the native whaling corporation. And yet, it won't surprise us if he's actually elected.  Ian and I thought it was kind of funny that we were watching part 3 of Ken Burn's movie on Prohibition tonight while votes here are being tallied to see if a liquor store will be allowed in town to those who qualify to buy.  Wouldn't that be something?!  Of course, Ian is actually against the idea.  It'll make work that much more difficult.  Ian and I didn't get to vote today.  We had asked to be added to the voter registration list when we updated our drivers' licenses but evidently that didn't go through. That's life in a small town for you.  I enjoy the atmosphere of a small town immensely though.  It's nice to go to the post office and see people you've just seen around town before.  It's homey.  






Wednesday, September 7, 2011

2 beautiful days in a row... must be some kind of record!


Today we went outside and celebrated two beautiful days in a row. It was "warm" and we frolicked on the beach without coats. It was 42 degrees. It's really too bad Ian had to work today on what was supposed to be his day off because we really could have made a day of it. But we'll be going to bed feeling so much happier for our frolicking. Good day. We really have to start taking full advantage of what few days like this we get because winter is on its way in a hurry. We're already dropping below freezing at night and it won't be long at all till we're never making it above freezing.

The post office today was unbelievably slow (this is not unusual in the slightest), but I did get to eavesdrop on the unusual conversation between two teachers that involved a lot of bathroom humor. And everybody in there was a lot chattier than usual. Makes for much better line waiting. In Barrow you appreciate the little things like overhearing funny conversations. Atticus, of course, had his usual great time trying to unlock all the post office boxes. Nothing makes that boy happier.

I've been told by multiple people that they'd like to know about our sunshine hours. So for those who having inquiring minds, today's sunrise was at 6:59am and sunset will be at 9:45pm. Not too shabby! We're losing daylight quickly though.

Thursday, August 18, 2011

All things polar bear, yet remain unseen

So here we are at the top of the world. Atticus having been sick from scarlet fever is finally getting well and feeling good, and I get a call from my husband, "Polar bear. Brower's. Gotta go." It's baby nap time, but I throw my camera gear together, wake up the baby, give him a dose of antibiotics and load us into the 15 passenger hooptie and hightail it out to Brower's. I was really quite proud of how quickly I got us out the door. I mean, I get motivated for polar bears! And alas, we were too slow. The bear had decided it had too much of an audience and swam off into the distance... apparently RIGHT before we got there. CRAPSPACKLE!

After the disappointment of not getting to see the bear that a significant number of the Barrow population had wandered out to ogle, we headed to the post office. I ran into my favorite librarian and in the process of the conversation I mentioned that I knew a polar bear had been shot... ok, back up storyline... our landlady, the dentist, gets a lot of community gossip and she had just told us the day before that a bear had been shot. I KNOW that means there's a pelt somewhere.... back to conversation with librarian... she knows where the pelt is! She gave me an idea of the area of town. But alas, I couldn't even find the dead polar bear! Ah well, there's always time for the polar bear scavenger hunt tomorrow. I think it's safe to say polar bear season might be starting here soon! Incidentally, it took 10 shots to take the dead one down.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Weird and fascinating facts about Barrow

Since I haven't had a lot to report on due to a string of rainy, cold weather, I thought I would give you some interesting Barrow tidbits that I've picked up along the way.

Whenever a UPS or FedEx package arrives, it will be delivered to your house by a member of a family of Tongans who will drive it over as soon as it gets off the plane... this means it could be 10pm.

If you want a pizza delivered, East Coast Pizza has fabulous pies but you'll have to pay the $5 delivery fee for it to be delivered. Why? Because they call a cab and the cab delivers your pizza. Cab fare is $5 anywhere in town. :)

We attend the Presbyterian Church, which is the oldest church in Barrow. Unlike any other place I know, Alaska was split up by the different denominations by an agreement and Barrow was in the Presbyterian area. Only Presbyterian missionaries were sent up here initially. It is also interesting to note, that the scripture is read in Inupiat as well as English.

All the police officers are not originally from Barrow. The reason is that nobody in the native community is interested in taking the job because they are related to everybody else and don't want to arrest their relatives.

For summer fun, the kids find pieces of plywood or old table tops that float and sticks that they use as oars and go punting on the tiny, shallow ponds that are all around town.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Dinner with the people who love Barrow

Tonight we went to the rotary meeting. One of Ian's colleagues is from Tuscaloosa and had been home to help out with tornado relief and was giving a speech on his trip. I find it both funny and bizarre that here we are something like 4000 miles away from Alabama and I run across a rival. It's like we can't get rid of alabama fans no matter where we go! :) It was a good speech, though, and he and his wife are extremely nice. It looks like we'll be getting together for bbq in the future. The great thing about the meeting was that it was full of the people who love living in Barrow. So we came away feeling really positive. The alabama fan's wife is originally from South Africa and had so many interesting stories to tell. They've been up here for 17 years and have even lived in some of the small villages like Anaktuvuk Pass and Wainwright... and they loved living there too! It sounds like I have a lot of interesting experiences ahead of me from polar bears and walrus to the whale hunts.

The woman who sat next to us was a probation officer. She has been up here for a while as well. One of her funny stories involved a drunk man approaching her while she was taking a walk and suggesting he should be her boyfriend. When she said no, he invited her to a party. He tried to tempt her by telling her there would be marijuana and alcohol. So she asked if she could invite her friends so it could be a real party. He was really disappointed when her friends turned out to be the cops! That just cracks me up! Word to the wise: if you're on probation, do not approach a probation officer and invite her to your illegal party!

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Life on Barrow time

One of the reasons I was excited about coming to Barrow was the unique opportunity to see things few others get to see and last night was my first of those opportunities. This past spring two whaling crews successfully pulled in a bowhead whale. The first crew held its celebration yesterday evening. I also got my first REAL example of Barrow time. We had gotten word that the blanket toss was going to take place between 7-8pm right after the banquet. So Ian, Atticus and I got started walking at about 7:15 only to get a text message that the banquet was still going on and it would probably be another couple of hours. Ian and Atticus stayed home and I headed out about 9:20. When I got there the party still hadn't started. The people of Barrow seem to be night owls and the party didn't truly get started until 10:30. But when it did, all were having a great time. There were bits of whale meat out for particular families to pick up and anyone and everyone who wanted a turn on the blanket got their opportunity. I finally left a little after 11 since I needed to get some sleep and I was starting to lose feeling in my fingers, but I got the distinct impression that things were only going to get livelier. And from what I understand, there was going to be a dance after the blanket toss. The second whaling crew is having their celebration tomorrow, but we'll have to determine if we'll go based on the weather. It's supposed to start snowing.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

The Arctic Nacho both in and out of her elements


The Arctic Nacho fam took a walk out of town to celebrate another gorgeous day at the top of the world... and I have to say getting out on the tundra away from town was wonderful even if it was only for a little while. Just long enough to take some pictures and see a plane come in. I feel comfortable on the tundra. The seemingly endless expanse of earth is really something. You feel both small and important at the same time.

Otherwise, though, it was a trying day. The little nacho was out of sorts, one of the nacho kitties was out of sorts, even the daddy nacho was a touch out of sorts... and my house still isn't together and that puts mama nacho a touch out of sorts. BUT it WILL eventually come together and there are less trying days to come... days where toddlers eat what they're supposed to, parents get to sleep in, all while still being productive. One day this will happen. :) I did realize something, though... my husband really should appreciate me quite a bit. He can never say that I wouldn't follow him to the ends of the earth!

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Happy Solstice!


The summer solstice is kind of a big deal in AK. Down in Anchorage and Fairbanks the sun does officially set, but it's light out like it never went down. Here in Barrow the sun has been up for 41 days... the summer solstice marks the midway point for our extremely LONG day that lasts for approximately 82 days. So for us the countdown is 41 days till sunset! Since we're not down in the big cities to have official celebrations, I just made cookies. I made do with what I had so I think this is actually an original recipe... so I'm calling it MV's Happy Solstice chocolate oatmeal cookies!

1 c. brown sugar
1/2 c. powdered sugar
1 c. butter
1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa
2 eggs
1 tsp. salt
1 1/2 c. self-rising flour
1 tsp. vanilla
1 c. oats

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cream butter, sugars, and cocoa together. Add eggs. Mix in flour, salt and vanilla and mix till blended. Lastly, mix in oats. Add dollops of batter on a non stick surface cookie sheet and bake for 12 minutes or until done.

Today has been a really great productive day. It's also Ian's last work day before he has three days off so we'll be off having fun and finishing getting the house put in order. The kitchen is finally done which helped aid in the cookie baking!

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Prettiest day we've had yet, so out we went.


Finally some blue sky! Atticus has been begging to go outside for days now so we walked him downtown to play on the playground next to the beach. With lots of rain lately, it was muddy but he was so ready to expend some energy!

We took another stroll by the beach and sea ice and then headed to meet all the people at the police department. As it turns out, we scored a free lunch AND I caught the news that Anchorage had an earthquake this morning. After days of rain/snow, it actually felt like there was a hint of warmth in the air... maybe "summer" will get here after all.

I was also reminded of something I find rather charming about Barrow... we have elections coming up and I've seen a lot of hand painted election signs. I far prefer these to the ones everyone sticks along the road in "normal" places!

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Well here we are at the top of the world!

Well here it is... by popular demand, a blog on our adventures living at the 71st parallel in Barrow, AK. I'm new to this whole blog thing, so bear with me! In case you're wondering, we once heard a lemming referred to as the "arctic nacho" and I decided it was an appropriate blog name for me. I blindly followed my husband up here and I will be doing my best not to become an arctic nacho to a polar bear while I'm here. :)

Less than a week ago, I got off a Boeing 737 with three giant bags, two carry-ons and a baby in tow. If there's one thing I already know about living in our new town, it's that you should never count on things being as they should be... flexibility and patience are a must! (It should be noted that these aren't always my strong suits!) My first surprise of sorts was our lovely 1987 15 passenger van. I was expecting a hoopty... but what we got still surprised me. It's drafty, rusty to the point that I wonder if it'll rust through, the speedometer doesn't work, and I'm constantly convinced that the side doors are going to fly open at any moment. Let's just say we won't be driving far out of town just in case! The second surprise came when we drove up to our apartment in the geodesic dome. We quickly discovered that we would not actually be sleeping in our own place that night because the door to the entryway was locked and our landlady didn't give us that key. Only in Barrow. BUT the police department keeps an apartment for officers in need so we ended up staying there and after a few phone calls managed to get into our apartment by the next day. I have come to understand that life in Barrow is really quite balanced. Though things might not happen in the best possible way, your needs WILL be met... in Barrow time. :) Since then we have been mostly unpacking, but we did take a moment to go check out the sea ice at the beach before the fog came rolling in.

Yes, I said sea ice. It might be June, but when you live 300 miles above the arctic circle that means the temperature is hovering just above freezing. The snow has melted and we're waiting for the tundra to green up.

Unique Barrow moment: Ian spent an hour and a half walking on the tundra looking for human remains, which a kid taking duck counts for a naturalist happened upon. Although they weren't able to locate them again, it was concluded after talks with the native corporation that what the kid likely found were the remains of an elder who died before the area was christianized and was taken out on the tundra to die. I think it's fascinating how the tundra keeps the past and present right there at the surface together.